Little Wednesday


I’ve wanted to surf since my diagnosis. Head out mid-morning when everyone was at work. I drive past a section on the freeway on the way to my oncologist where I can see the swell, and gauge how many bodies are out. The breaks between Ventura point and C Street. Would I be able for it? The cancer has moved into both of my hips and femurs. I worry, too, that I wouldn’t be able to carry my board because the disease is in my right shoulder. Most days my skeleton feels brittle and stiff. Some evil current runs through my back. It’s an odd feeling to be aware of. Your bones. I imagined I’d feel like this at 75. I have two boards, a 9’ Walden and a 7’6” epoxy egg which is my favorite. It’s also light, but I decide on the bigger one so I can scramble…

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2 thoughts on “Little Wednesday

  1. Hi Sean Just read little Wednesday well done.Now we’re all looking forward to Big Wednesday (tomorrow)the day when medical science your positive attitude and all our prayers will set you on the road to many more surfing days




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